Category Archives: Motoring

Robert Bennett – jailed for 6 months for riding at 122MPH

I feel the need to add my voice to the growing number who are appalled by the sentence handed out to Robert Bennett for his motorcycle speeding offence.

For those not familiar with the story…

Mr Bennett was allegedly caught speeding at 122MPH in the rain on the A361 in North Devon. He was riding a Suzuki Hayabusa and had his 14 year old son riding pillion. As a result, Robert Bennett received an 18 month driving ban and a 6 month custodial jail sentence, of which he must serve at least 3 months. His life is, I’m sure, ruined.

First of all, far be it from me or any other road user to criticise Mr Bennett for speeding. All drivers do it, whether intentionally or not. Obviously, few drivers hoon about at 122MPH, but let’s put this into context: the Suzuki Hayabusa is a 1300CC sports motorcycle capable of 186MPH, therefore 122MPH represents 65% of its capability. I regularly see people driving ordinary family cars at 100MPH+ on the motorway, which represents closer to 90% of the vehicle’s capability. Whilst I am certainly not going to condone riding at 122MPH on a public highway, that speed is well within the safe operational design limits of the bike in question. Mr Bennett has decades of riding experience, so it’s probably safe to say that he was operating within his own limits too

I’m not going to make a judgement on the speed – make your own mind up about that. Police pursuit drivers happily exceed those speeds in inferior vehicles without any concern for public safety. Also worth bearing in mind that a Hayabusa can stop from 122MPH in less distance than most cars can pull up from 70MPH. Frankly, if you watch the video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVOyrFz5pbk) I would question the accuracy of the speed gun anyway. He certainly doesn’t seem to be going that fast, particularly as he goes round the corner barely leaning.

Of course, he was prosecuted for dangerous driving not speeding, but I can’t really see much dangerous in the way he was riding. Sure, there was potential for a nasty accident, but he didn’t have one did he?

Very very harsh.

Let’s not forget that Lord Ahmed (a Labour peer) was jailed for only 12 weeks after texting behind the wheel and actually killing someone! He only served 16 days of that sentence. Where is the parity in justice?

In any case, if you ride that quickly, you greatly increase your risk and the need to concentrate and fully focus on the job. I cannot comprehend attempting that with a pillion, particularly if the pillion was my own son. My boys are not old or big enough to go on the back of my bikes, but when they are I will gladly take them. However, I will be riding more slowly and more carefully than I would on my own, and my boys would have to be decked out top to toe in safety gear. Mr Bennett failed to even provide gloves for his son.

Since being caught Robert Bennett has taken an anti-bike stance. He said:

“That bike was just so fast. You only have to touch the throttle and boom, it’s gone. I never would have knowingly traveled at that speed, especially with my son on the back. These bikes react amazingly quickly and sometimes it’s very hard to tell just how fast you are going.

“When I realised what I had done I felt very ashamed and had to get rid of the bike as soon as possible – I didn’t want it to happen again. With hindsight, I don’t know why manufacturers make bikes that fast, they should be speed-restricted, I will never buy a bike that fast again, in fact, I think I’ll stick to my car in future.”

Give me a break! No-one buys a Suzuki Hayabusa for its looks! People buy them because it’s the fastest bike you can buy. As with all modern bikes, the ‘busa comes complete with a speedo. This amazing gadget can be used to tell you just how fast you are going… and, it also comes with a throttle that can be closed as well as opened. If you can’t control a throttle, don’t buy a Hayabusa.

Frankly, I can’t believe anyone with 30 years’ riding experience would not have excellent throttle control along with a thoroughly good grasp of speed – without even having to look at the speedo. I have mastered both of those things, and I have been riding for just 1 year. So, why come out with all this tosh? The anti-motorcycling nazis are already against him, why does he want to alienate the motorcycling community with nonsense statements like this?

I think the quick sale probably had more to do with the certain knowledge of a ban and wanting to get the best price possible for the machine. Frankly, with the celebrity value, he should have been able to get rid of it for better than market value anyway.

As stupid as this was (and let’s face it, who of us hasn’t done stupid things in our life that are totally out of character with our normal good judgement?), does the punishment fit the crime?

Hell no! It’s an outrage! There is no way a car driver caught at 122MPH would receive a jail sentence like this. Again, I refer to Lord Ahmed’s case as a classic example. This is nothing more than bigotry on the part of Judge Phillip Wassall, who when sentencing came out with this:

“Had you lost control of your motorcycle it would have become a missile, causing a serious accident and probably the death of at least one person.”

What?!

The chances of an experienced rider losing control of a motorcycle operating well within its limits on a smooth dual carriageway is unlikely to say the least! And how would it have become a missile exactly? Missiles take off and accelerate towards a specific target. A bike sliding down the road is slowing down, and is simply out of control – not at all like a missile. Frankly, the dangers of a bike sliding down the road are similar whether the bike was doing 122MPH or 70MPH.

How do we know it would have caused a serious accident? A properly dressed motorcyclist can walk away from a 122MPH slide down the road. It’s all down to traffic, weather, road surface, chaos theory and a billion other random influences.

“Probably the death of at least one person”. Well, that sounds scientific and factual. Fair enough, the kid is going to have some messed up hands coming off at that speed without gloves, but he may not necessarily be dead. This is nothing more than conjecture, and conjecture has no place in the convicting of a person.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to justify the crime. I think it was completely reckless, but my opinion is no more relevant than Phillip Wassall’s own bigoted anti-bike, anti-justice ideals.

Robert Bennett needs to appeal. He is being made an example off, and that is not justice. I have no doubt he would win an appeal against the custodial sentence, but when he does, I suggest he leaves the bikes to those of us who know how to use a throttle and a speedo.

Bikes are a sensible, safe, cheap and environmentally friendly form of transport. Just as with cars, there are a small minority who drive like complete pricks and spoil it for the rest of us. I hope that the majority of safe riders will not be affected adversely by this case.

Foglights are for FOG!

I get so sick of being blinded by idiot car drivers who insist on having both their headlights and their front foglights burning in broad daylight. I’m at a loss to explain why they do it. I have foglights on the front of my car and I don’t feel an overwhelming urge to break the law and switch them on in the daylight. Perhaps some drivers think it looks “cool” in some way? I mean, it’s not as though they get any benefit from having them on, and it’s not as though they can actually see the front of their car whilst they sit behind the wheel.

Frankly, this sort of behaviour is typical of many car drivers, who glide around at high speed in their tonne+ metal cages, completely oblivious to their surroundings and other road users. Riding a motorcycle, as I do, makes you a much better car driver. It teaches you to actually connect with the job at hand, focus on being safe and avoid the morons around you. I think every driver should have to spend at least 6 months on a bike before they can have a car license.

This morning there was thick fog to be contended with on the way to work. I decided to ride my bike, but made sure I prepared. Cleaned my headlight glass, used high beam when appropriate (which being diffused through the fog would not dazzle other road users) and wore a high visibility vest.

Adequately prepared, I set off and gazed in astonishment as car after car passed me with NO headlights on at all. Some had sidelights on which are about as useful as fog as holding a torch out of the window might be. In all the cars I passed on my 17 mile run on busy dual carriageway, 3 had foglights on. Do car drivers not realise that they cannot be seen in fog if they don’t turn their lights on?

This is the problem. A motorcyclist is conscious not only of being able to see the road ahead, but also of being seen by other road users. Many car drivers only give thought to being able to see the road ahead, and some aren’t much bothered with that either.

Keep your wits about you if you want to stay alive out there.

Tesco – every litre helps. Apparently.

Who does it help? Tesco? Definitely! The customer? Not so much.

For those that don’t know, this is Tesco’s little twist on their slogan used to advertise their 5p off per litre on petrol and diesel (providing you have bought £50 worth of groceries). If you shop at Tesco anyway, and would spend that much anyway, then any petrol saving is very nice. If you use it as a reason to shop at Tesco, think again.

If your Tesco is not in a major town, you can pretty much guarantee that the price of their petrol is much higher than everywhere else. It was always the way with the Tesco in Chard, and now it would seem they are doing the same thing at the Tesco petrol station in Ilminster. It’s normally 3p – 4p more expensive than the local Shell forecourt, so actually, you save 1p – 2p per litre. And if, like me, you already have a Shell Mastercard (with a 3% fuel cashback), then it’s still cheaper to buy your fuel from Shell – and you don’t have to spend £50 on shopping first or put supermarket grade fuel in your car.

For residents in smaller towns, this is not the great deal that Tesco claim it to be. There’s no reason why they have to be more expensive at the pump than everyone else. There’s no reason why Tesco petrol in Ilminster should cost more than Tesco petrol in Yeovil. They will claim that it’s down to delivery costs, but as Ilminster is closer to the A303 arterial route than Yeovil, this argument won’t fly.

The Tesco petrol station in Ilminster was originally an Esso station. Tesco closed the forecourt, whacked up a temporary fence for several months and put up signs boasting a new and improved petrol station for us lucky residents. When the hoarding finally comes down, we find that the Esso signs have been swapped for Tesco and everything else is as is. Same pumps. Same car wash. Same shop. They did add a new, very annoying and ugly one way entry/exit system, and of course they whacked the prices up, but otherwise, nothing has changed.

Bennetts Motorcyle Insurance – bleeding me dry

I think I made a mistake in choosing Bennetts to insure my motorcycles. Whilst their premium initially seemed low, I am now paying for that in spades with their incessant £25 “admin” charge. Every time I make a change to my policy, no matter how minor, they bang on £25.

Today I phoned to change my address and update the details of how the bike is stored, and guess what? Yep. Another £25 please. And here’s the real scam: if you pay by monthly installments, the only way you can pay the £25 is by adding it to your direct debit, which means you get charged interest on the admin fee too!!!

And how is it that there is no refund in premium due to the fact the bike is now parked in a secure garage as opposed to being left on the street?

No other insurance company has ever charged me for a change of address, unless the new address impacted the premium. Bennetts, you are a complete joke – you may have my £25 (plus interest), but you have lost my business. When renewal time comes I shall be deserting you like the proverbial sinking ship.

Want to sell your car? Just tell it how it is.

I’ve been looking around for a cheap second motor to use for work without depriving my wife of the main family roadster. Being something of a picky chap, I want a decent car from a decent make, so I have been looking at high mileage, well-maintained larger motors. Having spotted a suitable specimen on an eBay auction that didn’t sell, I got in touch with the seller and arranged a lower price and a visit.

According to the advert, I was going to look at a lovely W registered Saab 9-5 2.0t SE in silver. Alloy wheels, leather interior, all the toys, but high-ish mileage at 128K, and hence a bargain price of £1,250. The principal draws were the advertised “full Saab service history”, the fact that the turbo had been replaced three months ago along with a basic service, the car had just “flown” through its MoT, had “four good tyres”, “six months’ tax” and that it “drives like a 20,000 mile car”. The seller assured me that it was a beautiful car and that if I bought it, I wouldn’t regret it all. His advert also claims close to 40MPG fuel economy (pretty outstanding for a 2 litre Saab). The only downside: a small scratch to one of the wheel arches that has been very nicely touched in. Got to be worth an 80 mile trip to view it… so, off I trot to Chippenham.

The car in fact has no tax. No service history beyond 66,000 miles, and therefore no indication of whether the cambelt has been changed (twice) as it should have been. There is a huge crack (20 inches at least) in the windscreen. There is a hole in the nearside headlamp lens, which has caused condensation on the inside. The front discs are severely pitted and very lipped, and will require changing within a couple of thousand miles. Something is squeaking in the engine. The “scratch” has clearly gone down to bare metal and is also dented, although it has been touched in properly, it’s pretty obvious. The “four good tyres” are actually two good tyres, and two that will need almost immediate replacement. The car does not have heated seats as per the advert. The fuel computer, which has not been reset in 3000 miles, shows an average MPG of 29.7 – although, it’s a wonder I managed to read it, because someone has smacked the computer screen and now it doesn’t display properly. The mileage of the vehicle is actually closer to 135k – can it really have done 7000 miles in the week since the advert was placed?

Then I notice a paint run on the offside rear door. Closer inspection reveals crazed lacquer across the entire door and an appalling piece of bodyshop work. The wheel arch on this corner has again been ground to the metal and touched up. There are bizarre cracks in the roof rail runners that have water ingress and will shortly be rusting from the inside out. The badge is a complete mess. The offside mirror doesn’t move properly and is cracked. The list goes on…

I understand it’s a cheap car. I understand it’s old. I’m prepared to accept a few dinks or the odd scratch, but here I am standing next to a chap describing a wonderful, well looked after, well maintained car, and I’m actually staring a shed that, if bought, will swiftly start making up for its cheapness by further emptying my wallet. I specifically told him on the phone that I didn’t want to buy something that needed stuff doing – he assured me the car was ready to go.

The Parkers guide price for a car of this age with average mileage (80,000) in good condition from a dealer is £1,700. As it’s being sold without warranty, the private good price applies, which in this case is £1,400. I figured the lower price was due to the mileage, so I was expecting to see a good example. In reality, this car is in very average (if not poor) condition, and not worth a penny more than £750.

It may well be that it’s a mechanically sound car that will provide cheap and safe transportation for some willing punter for many years to come, but I’m not going to take that gamble because I just don’t trust it. If the seller had described the car properly in the first place, I could have budgeted the bits that needed doing, set my expectations and made a decision, which in this case would have saved me a 160 mile round trip with my wife and two young children on a very cold and miserable day.

And so, to save others some time, here’s my helpful guide to some of the phrases traders use:

“One lady owner” = loads of carpark dings and a coked up, poorly serviced engine
“Partial service history” = a couple of receipts from KwikFit and not much else
“Flew through its MoT” = barely scraped through the test and will probably fail next time
“First to see will buy” = it’s a shed, but I’m hoping this line will get you to come and look, then I can sell it to you
“Absolute bargain” = pile of unroadworthy crap
“Genuine reason for sale” = something big is about to go wrong so I’m selling it quick
“Tidy bodywork” = numerous dings and small scratches
“Small patch of rust – barely noticeable” = the vehicle is one firm kick away from being a Fred Flintstone special
“One owner from new” = so what? He could be a one legged, one armed, blind man.

Also to be avoided like the plague are dishonest sellers – they are so easy to spot. Have a look on AutoTrader for the following:

  • People that quote a price under £1,000 to get cheap AutoTrader advertising, when the cost is actually much higher. An example of this would be a car priced at £339, and then in the advert text it says “price is £3395″. Like they just made a typo. Give me a break! Cheapskates! Would you trust a person who steals from the company advertising the car for them?
  • Adverts with mileage quoted without zeros. For example: 137,000 becomes 137 miles. Dealers do this to make sure the car still comes up in searches for cars with less than 100,000 miles. Oh yes. How cunning. I. Am. Fooled. This is nothing more than a cheap sales trick – expect plenty more when you go to view the pile of rust they are advertising.
  • Adverts with no mileage at all. Why won’t they tell you? Because the car is overpriced, on its last legs and again, they want the opportunity to do a sales pitch.
  • Adverts with no photos, no high-res photos, or photos taken with mobile phone cameras. If they don’t care enough to take 10 minutes to do some decent pics, what hope do you have of getting any problems sorted if something goes wrong?

I may be getting far too cynical, but whilst it may seem like there are loads of automotive bargains to be had just now, the truth is that bargains are few and far between. Looks like we’ll be staying a one car family for the forseeable.

Motorcycling in Winter – how to stay warm and dry

As the weather has taken a turn for the worse, I have found myself having to adapt my riding to suit the new conditions. I think I’ve found solutions to the majority of problems facing motorcyclists in bad weather, so I thought I’d list them here. Let’s start with dealing with the cold.

Staying Warm

When your body is cold, your reaction times are increased and your concentration levels are decreased. This is not a good combination for a motorcyclist! This can be particularly problematic as far as your hands are concerned. Cold hands are not only painful, they’re also slow, numb and clumsy, all of which could contribute to your failing to be able to make quick adjustments to the controls to avoid dangerous situations. The best solution to this problem is:

Heated Grips
Heated grips not only keep your hands warm, they also warm the blood that is circulating through your hands, which in turn helps keep your upper body warm. Whilst original manufacturer heated grips are quite pricey, other manufacturers such as Oxford sell grips suitable for all bikes from about £50. That’s less than you’d pay for a good set of winter gloves! The difference heated grips make to winter riding is phenomenal. You can ride for longer, and in comfort, despite very low temperatures.

Regardless of whether or not you choose to install heated grips, it’s essential to have good:

Gloves
Invest in a good quality pair of leather winter gloves, and you will be rewarded. Winter gloves, unlike their more flimsy summer counterparts, should be airtight. This ensures that your hands stay warm for as long as possible (which in cold weather, still won’t be very long). Make sure the gloves are waterproof as wet gloves will make your hands colder much more quickly. Gloves needn’t be expensive. I bought a very good pair made by Lewis for just £30.

To extend the warm time, consider some:

Inner Gloves
These are thin gloves that you wear under your main motorcycling gloves. You need to make sure that they don’t restrict your movement of course, but wearing an inner pair of gloves will keep your hands warmer for longer. Again, they needn’t be expensive. A simple knitted pair cost me just £3 and are barely noticeable under my main gloves.

Just as your hands need to stay warm, so do your feet. It’s important that you have good:

Boots and Thermal Socks
Feet tend to stay warmer for longer anyway when motorcycling. Partly due to the proximity of the engine, and partly due to the fairing (if you have one). You can keep them much warmer by buying a good pair of thermal socks. You don’t necessarily have to buy motorcycle socks, which tend to be expensive, consider offerings for hikers, mountaineers, snowboarders etc. Often, you can find good quality thermal socks at bargain basement prices from outdoor pursuits outlet stores.

When choosing your boots, buy the best you can afford, but don’t necessarily assume the best is the most expensive. I have some £30 ProBiker boots that are both warmer and dryer than my £100 TCX pair. The only annoyance is the laces on the cheaper pair, but an extra minute putting them on is worth it for the extra weather proofing.

Now, it’s important to keep your legs warm too. Don’t be scared, buy some:

Long Thermal Underwear
“Long Johns” or full-length thermal underwear may make you feel like a bit of a prat at the sales counter of the store you buy them from, but this is soon forgotten when you are enjoying a ride in cold weather without having cold legs and knees. I got a pair made from Merino Wool from Marks & Spencer for £17. There are cheaper versions made from synthetic fibres, but these will never be as comfortable and warm as natural fibres. I wear mine over my normal underwear so that they don’t need washing every day. Worth every penny!

If you have a good pair of textile motorcycling jeans with a thermal lining, the combination of thermal underwear, lining and waterproof outer is more than enough to keep you comfortably warm even in very cold weather.

Moving up the body, don’t forget some:

Thermal Vests or T-Shirts
Again, these can be quite pricey, but you needn’t spend a fortune. All the supermarkets sell vests, and cheap outdoor pursuits stores will have full sleeve thermal t-shirts for reasonable prices. Keeping your upper body warm in cold weather motorcycling is hugely important. Once your core body gets cold, you will have no choice but to stop and warm up somewhere.

Bizarrely, big thick jumpers are not the ticket here. Think layers. Lots of layers. Vest or thermal t-shirt, plus a t-shirt, plus a thin pullover or sweatshirt worn under a good jacket with thermal lining will keep the cold at bay for ages. Remember, it’s easy to remove a layer if you get too warm, but it’s not so easy to find an extra layer whilst on the move if you get too cold.

Here’s another top tip: if you’re out riding and you find that you haven’t layered up properly and the cold is getting in, go buy a newspaper and stuff this under your jacket. The 40p thermal top!

And don’t forget your neck and head! Consider purchasing a:

Balaclava
I buy Spada Chill Factor balaclavas which are made for motorcyclists and have an extra long front to make sure your neck stays covered. A cold neck and chin can be very uncomfortable. You can find these balaclavas on eBay (brand new) for under a tenner. Worth every penny. Just remember that if your helmet is a very tight fit, wear a balaclava might be difficult. For me, it’s a comfortable addition which makes a huge difference. My ears and neck stay warm, and with the balaclava covering my nose, it helps my visor stay fog free for longer.

Staying Dry

Cold is a problem that is easily dealt with. Staying dry can be much more difficult and will exacerbate the cold, so let’s look at what we can do to stay dry. Let’s start again with:

Gloves
Good winter gloves should be waterproof. My £30 pair of Lewis gloves keep my hands bone dry even in torrential rain. Look carefully at the label of the gloves you are buying, and try to find gloves that won’t get soaked themselves. Even though your hands may be dry, if the outer glove is soaked it will catch more wind and you will be colder as a result. Leather does soak up water over time, but textiles offer less protection. You have to find the balance between the two. Again, inner gloves can help, particularly if they are waterproof too, as some motorcycling specific inner gloves are.

Remember: when it’s raining, make sure your glove cuffs are inside the sleeve of your jacket, not outside. If you put your gloves on over your jacket sleeve the water will run down your arms and straight into your gloves, which rather defeats the object!

At the other end of the body, let’s look again at:

Boots
Not all boots are waterproof. Some will survive a light shower, but sustained riding at speed in heavy rain is a different matter entirely. Fabric parts on the top of the boot may make movement easier, but these tend to be weak areas for letting in water. My cheaper textile boots are much more waterproof than my more expensive leather ones, but again they offer less protection.

The cheapest way to waterproof any pair of boots is the humble plastic bag. Pop your feet inside a bag before putting your boots on and you should stay dry no matter what the weather does! Don’t forget also to make sure your trousers go over the top of your boots, otherwise the water will run straight down your legs into the boots!

What you really need is a:

Good Textile Suit
Leather is no good in the rain, you need to wear textiles or a waterproof oversuit. In fact, even if your riding gear is waterproof, a one piece oversuit will ensure you stay dry no matter what, and they’re cheap too!

If you wear a two piece textile combination, remember that as you are sat on the bike, the wind will force the water into your lap, where it will pool and blow up inside your jacket. Ever had the big wet patch on your stomach? That’s the reason. A waterproof oversuit will solve this, but if you don’t have one, take regular opportunities to stand and shake the water clear. Again, the humble plastic bag can come to your rescue: stuff one in the top of your trousers and over your stomach…

Vision

Finally, the other major problem (and I do mean major) is that of visibility. Your helmet does not have a wiper blade, obviously, and constant wiping with gloves will make them wet and make your hands cold. Some gloves have a rubber strip built into the forefinger of the glove to help you wipe clear, but as the visor will be covered with rain again in mere seconds, these are of limited use. Consider some treatment spray for your visor. Once applied, these waxy substances encourage the water to dissipate, and the wind force will be able to push the droplets to the side of the visor.

When it’s wet, the problem of internal fogging becomes much worse. Pinlock inserts, if your helmet supports them, can help hugely here, but otherwise you need to regularly treat the inside of your visor with an anti-fog solution. You can also consider a helmet insert that re-directs your breath away from the visor. All of these things can be purchased in stores like Hein Gericke.

There’s nothing worse than riding at night in the rain with a rapidly fogging visor and rain covering the outside of the visor, deflecting all the light from oncoming traffic. Visibility can be significantly reduced, so ride more slowly. Don’t take risks! Try and follow (at a safe distance) a car, as the red tail lights will help you to see where you are going. If it gets too bad, stop!

Remember too that winter brings lower light conditions and reduced visibility for ALL motorists. Wear a high-visibility vest with reflective material to ensure that they can see you, and obviously make sure you always ride with your lights on.

Winter riding is nothing to be scared of, provided you are properly prepared for it. Don’t expect to be able to ride the way you do in summer, but don’t be too scared of the conditions. Modern tyres grip well even in wet conditions, and a well-maintained bike can be ridden safely and in comfort throughout winter by the well-prepared motorcyclist.

Safe riding folks!

Heated grips – how good are they?

The answer is: good. Very good.

I’ve just had genuine Yamaha heated grips installed on my FZ6 Fazer, and it has revolutionised my winter riding. The genuine Yamaha grips seem to cost considerably more than generic grips made by people like Oxford, but Bransons in Yeovil did me a deal because I had bought my bike from them, and I figure the genuine article will have proper fixings etc. and won’t invalidate any warranties.

The installation is very tidy, and the grips are operated by a simple dial. You can choose anything from gently warming to burning hot, or you can switch them off all together.  The grips are slightly thicker than standard grips, but I find them more comfortable as a result.

The cost was £250 fitted, and I can highly recommend them.

Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2 vs Suzuki SV650S

Regular readers of my blog will know that I started my motorcycle riding career on a Suzuki SV650S. The SV didn’t suit me, largely because the riding position was too sporty and uncomfortable (I’m 6ft1 tall) for any major distances, plus the mileage was getting up to the 27,000 mark. So, I’ve traded it in for a new Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2 with ABS, and having lived with the Fazer for a few days, thought it might be worth doing a quick comparison between the two bikes, particularly as they are similar and are aimed at the same target market.

2008 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2

I should make it clear that my SV650S was a 2001 model with plenty of mileage on it, whereas I’m comparing it with a brand new bike. It’s also worth pointing out that it is only the faired version of the SV (the SV650S as opposed to the SV650) that has the sportier riding position. The naked SV probably would have suited me fine.

The riding position on the Fazer is completely different. You sit very upright, and the bike feels quite tall, which leads to almost motocross style flickability, and possibly a less involved ride than the SV and other more sporty bikes. The seats on both bikes are hard on the buttocks over longer distances, but the Fazer is far more bearable due to the more upright riding position.

Another key difference between the two bikes is the engines. The SV is a v-twin, whereas the Fazer is an inline 4 cylinder, and both have different characteristics. V-twins typically have lower redlines, and generate their peak power earlier in the rev range. They also return excellent levels of torque, meaning you can get away with being more lazy on your gear changes. An inline 4 usually develops less torque and reaches peak power much later in the rev range, meaning you have to make the most of the gears, and rev the engine a bit more to realise the full performance of the engine.

The Fazer has a 600cc engine developing 98BHP @ 12,000 RPM. The SV650S (2001) has a 645cc engine developing 70BHP @ 9,000 RPM. So, which is quicker?

2001 Suzuki SV650S

I think the SV is easier to ride more quickly, with an instant surge of power from the throttle at almost any gear and rev combination. The Fazer feels weaker around town, but when you open it up (7000RPM+) it takes off with a huge surge of power. If you had a drag race, the SV would probably pull off the line quicker, but the Fazer would catch up and win as soon as it hit the magic power band! In every day use, there really isn’t as much difference as you might expect.

Pillion comfort is good on both bikes, but the SV seems to pull better two-up than the Fazer. Grab rails are good on both bikes, with the handle at the rear on the SV and handles on the side of the Fazer. Because the exhausts run under the seat on the Fazer, the pillion does benefit from warm hands and bum too!

Both bikes have a half or bikini fairing with a screen, so how is the wind deflection? Simple answer: the SV is better. At least for me, anyway. I have purchased and started using ear plugs with the Fazer, when I never felt I needed them on the SV. Wind noise is high above 70MPH, and any speed above 90 is pretty untolerable, which is probably a good thing. It’s worth mentioning also that the SV’s mirrors seemed to suffer less from vibration at high speed.

The only real disappointment with the new Yamaha though, is its gearbox. Suzuki just seem to be able to make better gearboxes. Changing gear on my 15 year old GSX1100F is like a knife through hot butter. The Yamaha gearbox is fine until you miss your change downs at a junction. At which point you have to stand on the pedal and engage the clutch slowly until it snaps in, and then repeat until you hit first (pulling away in second is much harder than on the SV due to less torque), which takes time. Simple answer is to make sure you don’t get caught out, but we all have our off-days, and the Suzuki gearbox just seems to be more forgiving. Perversely, the Yamaha gearbox is perfect for clutchless up-changes when on the power – it snicks in very easily, despite the user manual advising you that you should always use the clutch because the engine and drivetrain is not designed to withstand the shock of clutchless changes. Knackers to that. The differences could of course be due to my comparing older bikes with a brand new one.

The only other mild irritation is that only one of the headlights switches on at low beam. I’ve found a guy on the FZ6 Forum who makes up cables to wire up the other headlight though, so I will shortly be making that modification.

In terms of handling, both bikes are exceptionally good and can be flicked around the twisty roads with very little rider input. The Fazer feels like it drops into corners faster (probably due to the tall riding position), but it does hold lines very well.

The brakes are brilliant on both bikes. I spent extra on the Fazer to have ABS, but thankfully I haven’t had cause to use it yet, and I hope I never do, but it seemed like a worthy thing to have for the sake of £300. It will no doubt pay dividends if I ever have to do an emergency stop in the wet with a pillion.

Suzuki are often slated for their finish quality, and the SV is no exception. I use my bikes in all weathers, and the SV which I only had for 4 months, was showing signs of deterioration. Previously, it had been garaged all its life, so the speed with which the rust and oxidisation appeared was a little alarming, and another factor in selling the bike. The Fazer has a painted engine, and the quality of finish looks generally better, so I have a bit more confidence in its weather proofing. Only time will tell. I was disappointed with the thickness of the paint and lacquer though. I foolishly didn’t go straight out to buy a tank protector, and somehow managed to scratch the tank with just the plastic buttons on my jacket. Pretty poor that.

So, which is the better bike?

It’s not that simple. It depends what you want from your ride and how you will use the bike. I would choose the Yamaha every time, purely for the riding position and the generally better quality of finish. The engine (a second generation R6 engine) is good when it gets going, and the sound it makes as you get to the top of the rev range is awesome. Very addictive too, which is not so good given that the top of the rev range in second gear equals points on the licence if you get caught!

There will be plenty of others who prefer the SV. I did love the relaxed thump of the v-twin, but the best sounds are to be enjoyed from about 10 metres behind the bike, which is not much use to the rider.

With Yamaha’s amazing 3.5 year 0% finance deal (which has just been extended), the Fazer will be more accessible to most people, and it’s a great bike for the money. Either way, you’re going to have a great bike that delivers lots and lots of grins.

Brandon White – killed when he rode his motorcycle into the back of a truck – but, do we really need to see the pictures?

I was reading a copy of Superbike magazine from back in the “summer” and was rather appalled to see pictures of Brandon White’s horrific accident reprinted, ostensibly as a “warning” on road safety. This from a magazine that seems to actually encourage high speed riding. I don’t believe anybody unrelated to the accident or Brandon’s family needs to see these pictures.

Brandon was a 25 year old American, who hit the back of a “semi” (big truck to all the UK readers) after it changed lanes in front of him. It is believed that Brandon was traveling at 120 MPH, and if the truck was doing 50, then that’s pretty much like hitting a wall at 70 MPH. Suffice it to say, Brandon did not live to tell the tale. Thankfully, he probably felt nothing, but that may be slim consolation for his family that now have to deal with the pictures whizzing around the Internet and being printed in magazines and newspapers.

These same magazines all showed utmost respect when Craig Jones (a British racer) died in an on-track accident recently, printing beautiful eulogies to a “great man”. I’m sure Craig Jones was a great man, but the people writing these articles don’t necessarily know that any more than they know Brandon White wasn’t a great man. He certainly does not deserve to be ridiculed in this way.

Even more upsetting are the various posts in forums by sub-humans with a morbid desire to intrude upon another individual’s death. There are even posts in one forum (that I found thanks to Google) expressing disappointment because the photos of Brandon hanging limply from the back of a truck are not gruesome enough.

The only good that can come from his brutal end being publicised is that others will think more carefully about their own road safety. Anyone who rides a powerful motorcycle knows that a flick of the wrist and a few seconds are all that stand between rider and speeds our ancestors could only dream of. Empty straight highway? 120MPH? Not a problem. Take the same highway and add a few slow-moving vehicles and 120MPH is likely to result in what happened to young Mr White. Arbitrary speed limits or limited bikes may be the answer for the ignorant few, but for most sensible riders, they just need to ensure that their speed does not wildly exceed the speed of those traveling around them, and that the speed they choose to travel at is appropriate for the road and weather conditions.

Brandon White has been severely punished for his mis-judgment, whereas many other (probably less worthy) individuals will get away with it. For now.

The human body is a fragile thing, comprised mostly of water. It cannot survive high speed impacts. The seasoned rider will be acutely aware of this fact, without being morbidly obsessed with it, and will temper his riding accordingly.

Whether Brandon White was at fault or not in his accident is irrelevant to his family who were not in any way responsible for his actions, and deserve to be treated with respect and allowed to grieve in peace. I certainly am sorry for their loss and I sincerely hope that I don’t see any similar pictures the next time I open a bike magazine for a quiet morning read.

For now, the sun is out (!) and I have my GSX1100F back from the garage, so I’m heading out to enjoy my motorcycle. At safe speeds, of course. ;-)

I’m confused.com so compare the market and quote me happy

Every ad break on every show I watch on TV, one of these car insurance websites is telling me that I can save money on my insurance bills with them. They all claim to be cheaper than each other, so you could be forgiven for expecting to actually get cheap insurance premiums right?

I had to arrange insurance for the new family roadster, a Fiat Grande Punto. It’s only a 1.3 diesel, so I’m not really expecting to have to pay top dollar. My experience over the years has always been that it is cheapest to buy your car insurance from Direct Line, and yet still, each time I need some, I feel the need to shop around. Every time I do, I usually end up back where I started with Direct Line. Anyway, I thought I’d get a few quotes for the Punto, the question is: where do I start?

Well, I decided not to bother with Norwich Union. I called them a couple of years ago for a quote on my Fiat Coupe and was given a figure of £1,600. I now understand the “Quote Me Happy” slogan: they quote you, you fall about laughing, and then you phone someone else. In this case I phoned Direct Line and insured my coop for £350. So, I narrowed my list down to three places this time:

  1. Confused.com – because I hate their TV commercials so much. I don’t believe they can save money and I wanted to verify this.
  2. Tesco – my business partner Tom is convinced they are the cheapest.
  3. Direct Line – because they are bound to be cheaper than the above.

So, confused.com – not an actual insurer, but one of the new scourge of Internet price comparison websites that are systematically re-channelling profits away from the actual provider into the pockets of a middle man. I’m convinced this is ultimately bad for the consumer, as it will result in inevitable price increases. If the insurance company has to pay a cut to confused.com, then you are not getting the best price, and the provider is not getting the best margin. Anyway, after inputting all the details (and there are a lot of details to be entered), I got a list of insurance quotes in order of cheapest. The top entry was some budget outfit that I had never heard of, that had a huge excess and no windscreen cover. There’s no way I would take such a useless policy – the chances of a smooth payout if you ever needed one are slimmer than Beckham’s missus. Anyway the amazing price was £228. Bearing in mind I pay £330 for a group 19 performance car, this seemed excessive.

Next up, Tesco. I have noticed that Tesco’s insurance paperwork and quoting engine are identical to Direct Line’s. Does this mean Tesco car insurance is actually Direct Line? I don’t know, but, they were cheaper at £198. They also offered me a “Value” policy, so called because it has no value, just like the rest of Tesco’s “Value” range. Not for me thanks.

And finally, Direct Line, who came in at £152. Thanks very much. I’ll take two.

In fact, as my Coupe was already insured with Direct Line, I just adjusted my existing policy. I got a refund and they covered the Coupe for another 2 weeks free of charge to give me time to sell it.

So, if you’re looking for insurance, I reckon you are much better off going direct to the insurers, rather than helping fund Confused.com’s directors’ new fleet of Ferraris, which will probably be insured with Direct Line, because they’re cheapest.